1. I believe it's impossible for an influencer that earns money through affiliate links, paid ads, and gifted items to be 100% authentic. Because they earn their living through these channels, the more they can maximize their earnings through sharing higher value items, trendy items, or sponsored items, the better for their income. I'm not saying that influencers shouldn't be able to earn a living, but we need to do a better job of being aware of this. I made the decision recently (inspired by TotallyRec) to make my substack free from affiliate links, paid ads, or gifted items because I felt like I couldn't be authentic with my recommendations if incentivized by these things.
2. I've asked this question about "middle tier" brands before as well - I think Sezane does fit that bucket well and so do brands like Reformation and Madewell. I do wish there were more options though!
I think you are right RE honest affiliate linking. It's insidious because I'm happy to pay a "finder's fee" but it's impossible to parse out an honest recommendation. When I saw the backend of ShopMy I was shocked at the commission payout offered by lots of places, 15-20% is a pretty hefty kickback and would certainly sway me into linking to that product vs. one without a commission.
Totally agree - I was shocked to see the backend of ShopMy too. I also agree that I'd be down to pay a founders fee - what if the affiliate was the same, no matter what you linked? That way, you were rewarding the curation, but the influencer could link any item they wanted. I don't think influencers would love this, but maybe if audiences felt this was more authentic then it could gain momentum.
I really miss the early days of fashion blogs before gifting even existed, never mind affiliate links! When it was just some girl with a normal job who was just really stylish and great at putting looks together and would tell you where she got stuff for nothing, or even who you could just copy with your own stuff. With hindsight it was always going to go the way it has, but it was so great when it was just people who loved fashion sharing it for fun.
Me too!! Honestly it's why I love Substack notes so much because it's people sharing their outfits randomly and we are all just on here for FUN so the outfits are real and realistic.
That’s too bad!! When I see someone sharing a fun outfit on notes it’s usually unrelated to their posts! But I might not be referencing the same people 🤷♀️
Same! It’s so refreshing to see normal people (of all shapes and sizes too) who buy their own clothes sharing outfits and chatting about fashion just because they’re excited about it!
same - it couldn't continue that way forever, it's not possible to put out an endless stream of outfits and posts forever in exchange for nothing except some nice comments. The investment of time alone would have eventually killed most of the early fashion blogs whose writers were in full-time work or education and didn't want to or couldn't turn pro (what we now know as influencers) but the arrival of ig did the rest.
But god do I miss the greater honesty of those days when people weren't dressing mainly to be photographed and weren't hesitant to be critical of even the most vaunted fashion names. That was the anti-establishment, and now it's the establishment.
I was disappointed to see a substacker I really like post on instagram today saying “PRs and brands, why are you sleeping on Substack!?!” I just thought noooooo, stay away please!
This was !!!! You literally wrote some of the thoughts that rotate through my brain when I scroll Instagram these days, not to mention a lot of the reasons I left my old styling job. So much of influencing (can be, not all the time) smoke and mirrors and its (often) discouraging to see a largely unattainable lifestyle being sold to twenty- somethings -- when I first downloaded TikTok and had yet to tweak my algorithm, it was flooded with 25 year olds crying/screaming/lusting over Birkin bags...all for the clout of being able to flaunt the ability to "afford" one and be in this elite club that's all an illusion?
I had a styling client who was very (very, very, very) wealthy and demanded to only wear plain black Balmain t-shirts (as undershirts) that cost $750 a piece. The way....they looked... like Hanes t-shirts that cost $30 for a 3 pack... that's how I (personally) feel about 98% of what The Row has to offer.
"What do we do as we watch prices for the “must have item” grow out of our reach and the product that is within reach falls apart after one wear?" - I think another point here is that just because something is designer does not mean its well made! Like The Row jelly sandals which are sold out everywhere, reselling for 1.5x the cost, and have been snapping/falling apart on most people. I used to personal shop for clients and the amount of things that looked great online yet showed up feeling "cheap", or were damaged/poorly made - it's not all good!
Obviously this is why I buy mostly secondhand - but as to where to go for the basic closet essentials that are ideal to buy new? I have no idea. I worked at Madewell for far too long and the quality just isn't there for what the mark-up is most of the time!
The way I smiled while reading your comment. I'm so glad this resonated with you as I worried that I was the lone person feeling this way!!
There is such a massive IYKYK concept when it comes to fashion. Wearing The Row $750 sneakers is an example. Like they are literally not that different than any number of sneakers but people wanted them because of the brand (and not even the logo!). Similar to your client, like "you know you can get this for $10?"
Also, your point about The Row jellies was something I desperately wanted to touch on without The Row-fanatics coming for me. How dumb do you feel when you buy those shoes and they break on you? It's one thing when it's an Uber wealthy woman but it's another when it's someone going into debt for it because they see it all over their feeds. (I know they refunded them, yadda yadda) but my point remains.
The IYKYK concept is always SO fascinating to me - mostly when I see *far* more stylish people wearing the $30 Keds than the fashion/trendy person in the $750 version. People easily forget it's *how* you wear it - they're (often) just blinded by the impulse to *have* it. ETA: I wouldn't mind luxury influencers as much if there were more of them styling things outside the box of what's currently virally trendy.
Honestly, I think it might be time to start getting spicy and share the opinions that don't just go with the flow! I've held my tongue in most of my writing when it comes to influencers, trends, luxury brands, etc etc because we're surrounded by many of these people in some way shape or form on this platform (this became glaringly apparent when I saw who was seeing my feels about Bode) but nothing will change in these industries if they don't start seeing the criticism that the average, level headed consumer, can feel bored, tapped out, and miserable with what's being thrown at them!
I find it ironic that many feel the luxury/fashion/influencer industry to be elite, when in reality it feels (to me) like a very boring, repetitive echo chamber.
I needed that encouragement to say what I needed to say! There are a lot of consumers feeling the same way we feel so let's lend them a place to feel normalized.
I feel it necessary to add, given where this topic has gone since you posted, that my thoughts are just one teeny tiny little baby blurb on how wide and expansive this subject is as we watch advertising, capitalism, and the internet continue to shift at lightning speed into a new era.
I am very aware, worked with many people, and know many people who are the target audience for many of these influencers and can afford luxury goods and I was delighted to participate in being in the designer fashion space with them. My previous career had me working with some of the wealthiest women in America and to learn and discuss with them their shopping, spending, hunting for exotic couture habits was a fascinating chapter of my life I look back on fondly.
There is something for everyone in this big wide world, I just think a lot of people are looking for more transparency. Don’t get me wrong, if my personal budget allowed it, I’d be wearing a hell of a lot more designer!!
This isn’t saying influencers = bad, luxury brands = bad, how dare women spend their money on nice things. I don’t want my comments to be taken as a bitter chip on my shoulder but rather food for thought as newer generations navigate growing up on apps where they have access to seeing a distorted reality of literally how the entire world lives at the push of a button.
I’m glad you posted this because I can get bent around the axel about this a little bit but I’m a huge fan of designer fashion. If I had the money I would use it to buy nice things too. I hope that my post, at least, was clear that the issue is with lack of transparency around the acquiring of end high products and the confusion a (esp young) person can feel around being able to have those pieces too.
Soooo agree with styling being one giant smokescreen… even stylists themselves will wear client pulls and post them as if it’s part of their closet and it’s just wild to me? It’s all about clout these days and also a reason I left the styling side of things (full time at least)
I don't, on principle, have a problem with people earning money from affiliate links - if they genuinely like the product because it's something they spent their own money on and get a percentage if I buy it through a link, it's fine - a finder's fee, as someone above said. Same with people who started off as bedroom bloggers but are now full-time part of the industry .... my interest in them may have been initially sparked by a certain relatability (same age, same taste in music/fashion etc) but then our paths diverge as they got more access to the expensive stuff, gain status in the industry, things change - that's still fine and I can hardly hold it against them when I myself can afford - and choose to buy - far more expensive wearables, whether secondhand or not, than I could at age 23.
(I also had the benefit of it being very normalised in the mid-late 00s to wear 'high-low' or pull off a look entirely from high street brands, and older bloggers who owned designer pieces being up front about how they could afford it - tl;dr years of working for a living, no children, sample sales, editorial perks in some cases - actively telling us NOT to buy certain designer pieces if we were under 30 because in their experience, it didn't fit the lives/styles of very young women, never mind the cost)
But the 'are you kidding me?!' territory isn't far away when a brand chooses to flog canvas plimsolls for $950 and jelly shoes for $890 or another chooses to flog trousers for $900 'you'll have them forever' - and then you see people actively recommending this stuff across your algorithm after being gifted them i.e. they spent no money on it but expect you to spend yours, to make them money. As for the 'you're not my audience' argument.....sure, luxury has always been about giving you something that the plebes don't or can't have, often because they didn't even know it existed. The Row has been highly expensive since 2006, those price points are not new but they also weren't in everyone's faces because they were out of sight in Barney's or whatever. Those $900 plastic shoes or crazy expensive bags being sold in a luxury department store far away from where I live? I won't even know they were ever there or who bought them because I wouldn't even think to walk into that shop. They don't want the riffraff as customers, so they sell it in a place the riffraff won't go to. But the same thing floating across my ig explore or substack home page via algorithm? Is actively seeking to catch my peasant attention and possibly my goodwill to make a purchase, and I think it's perfectly fair to have opinions of the 'are you kidding me?!' variety in such cases.
yeah I understand the point of influencing/affiliate links and why it exists, but in practice it's not usually my cup of tea even if I think there are those who do it well and in a way that's true to their own tastes and lives. But then I'm a former blogger myself and a lot of the culture surrounding influencing is the opposite of what drew me to other bloggers back in the 00s.
I was totally lost about what all this is about until I read some of the comments in Kelly’s article…first of all, it feels pure zero-sum bias at play here, when really there is room for all types of creators. I understand that livelihoods are at stake for some creators, but the blogging/newsletter universe needs a diversity of views, just like everything else important in the world, and getting incredibly territorial every time there are opposing views is not helpful…
I want to live in this piece and this comment section. Thank you, Kelly, Kendall, Glenn Mae, Cost per Fit et al! I decided to start my Substack LAST WEEK in part because I can no longer relate to so many of the OG styling queens who write on Substack or are influencers — and none of my clients have ever been close to being able to relate to them! Last week, a very successful example of had The Row for nearly half of her recommendations throughout her post — and lauded how a $5000 pair of pants was on sale for $2500 and was therefore a steal. That could convince a follower to go into debt for something absurd they don’t need. Just totally unrelatable or accessible for most of us. And the Toteme and The Row -ification of fashion — ie minimalist quiet luxury — is just so not my style or that of most of my clients and friends. And overall way too much encouragement of buying new over secondhand cuz everything goes on “sale.” OVER IT!
I'm so glad you are on SS and letting your voice be heard too! We need our voices to be louder than the other women who are absolutely screaming about how great these brands are. Your point about sending followers in to debt is important to me. These influencers suggesting products (that they often don't pay for) is insulting.
I would love for the influencer content to slow down. It’s so damaging for the younger generation and makes young women incredibly anxious that they’re not ‘caught up’ with brands most will never afford. My wardrobe at 23 working in high fashion consisted of well chosen COS and H&M pieces but I saved every penny to buy Helmut Lang or ACNE bits I loved and wore until they fell apart or were resold. I never overconsumed and I upgraded my wardrobe slowly over time. We didn’t expect to have the best of the best by age 25. The Row jelly situation is just bonkers. I called them out as ‘Emperors New Clothes’ early on. Literally, they’re plastic, people!!!
Well said Camilla! Did you read the piece about “The Great Exhaustion” that is anticipated in 2026? I remain hopeful that a side-effect of that is that influencing changes in a positive way; highlighting styling and conscious consumption.
Exactly, Camilla! And, honestly, it's damaging for mid-life women who are at a crossroads with their style given bodies shape shifting (thanks, menopause) and lifestyles pivoting. No one needs the disingenuous influencer to thrust high-end "must haves" that they, themselves, are not purchasing.
This was a great read, Kelly. The system is so broken. I was just reading an exposé about how Dior spends $57 manufacturing a handbag that retails for $2700. Emperor's new clothes (and accessories), indeed.
i feel like the saddest part of the dior story is not that you are paying so much more than what it costs to produce but that luxury houses are not paying their workers enough. for many people luxury brands are about fair wages and better work conditions, but investigations lately have been showing that many brands are using sweatshops, overworking people and not paying enough. basically the same story as with fast fashion companies. this is the worst part for me. you are lead to believe the dior bags are made by highly skilled well paid artisans who love their job but in reality it’s a sweatshop with tons of workers, minimum wages and human rights violations.
Yes, and even if that $57 was just the cost of materials and didn't cover labour and design, when a product is sold for $2600 but made by people who are effectively working in the same conditions as a sweatshop..... that's not luxury (and at that price point I would expect some of that money to ensure the people who made my bag are paid and treated WELL. Which is a huge part of 'luxury' marketing and justification of the insane prices!)
Exactly. It's obvious that big corporations (fast fashion, mid-price and luxury) could pay decent wages to the people who make their products, but they choose not to. It's sickening.
Thank you for raising such an important point. It’s such a huge part of the marketing for LVMH brands (for example) to punt their history of craftsmanship, using the image of dedicated experts working away in ateliers, even extending to doors open days to visit these. Pretty sickening to learn that’s a smoke and mirrors situation too.
yes, i also feel totally betrayed by their “craftsmanship” marketing as well. and no media is talking enough about it because they are getting their money from lvmh is some way or another
Wowowow. I think consumers would so appreciate transparency around mark-ups. It’s expected because of the cost of running a business but no company would expose themselves because of how greedy it would reveal them to be!
I saw that Dior story the same day I saw an influencer holding up a Dior bag she was sent saying: “I wouldn’t buy it with my own money but it’s nice to have been sent it”……
Yep, but we’re supposed to be influenced to go out and spend 3k on it. And after that glowing endorsement… perfectly encapsulates how rotten the whole thing has become.
Yes - we all saw that one and were any of us really surprised that Dior makes billions in profit by an insane mark up? It’s how Kering et al got so rich. It’s really appalling now!!! It made me feel nauseous seeing the Dior factory workers sleeping on the floor to make 5k bags 😱😱😱
This was such an interesting read, Kelly, and comment section! It's a funny one. On the one hand, I agree that so much of what we're shown on Instagram isn't attainable for most of us and it can feel a bit "off" if an influencer you've followed and admired for years starts sharing products that aren't accessible.
On the other hand, it is important to take into account that these influencers we've followed for years are now older and, as their careers have grown, so too have their incomes - as you mentioned in this post. I feel very fortunate that I have more disposable income now at 34 than I did at 24 because I'm much further along in my career (and don't have any kids/dependents), and that's reflected in my wardrobe choices.
I do believe there are a lot of "genuine" influencers out there. I suppose it's like any media we consume: we should view it with a critical (though not judgemental) eye, understand that there may be some biases (whether the influencer knows it or not), and take what we want from it. I personally take a lot of styling inspiration from the likes of The Row and while I know I will probably never buy/afford something from them, I know I can recreate a lot of their looks with pieces I own. The same goes for pieces that influencers share. That's where the creativity of styling comes in!
Angharad, thank you for your graceful response! I am loving the engagement from readers but I also think that the point I wrote about it being lost a little bit but you have grasped it perfectly. I just wanted to encourage people to be thoughtful about how we can start to think we should overextend ourselves financially because of exposure on social media. Ultimately we all get to decide who/how we engage with someone so if I’m following them it usually because I like their style and can approximate it in my own closet or I genuinely like their product recommendations!
I love both of your POVs, Kelly and Angharad! I thought this was such a thoughtful piece, and Kelly brought up so many good points that many of us "mid-range buyers" could relate to. I'm not as affected by ultra-luxury brands, like The Row because they feel so unattainable to me, but I still like to consume content on them in a more aspirational way and to get ideas on how I could recreate similar looks on my budget.
I've noticed that being on Substack has made me more aware of other higher-end brands, so if anything, I do find myself lusting after a lot more brands that don't seem expensive to some people (e.g., Khaite, Vince, Doen, Jenni Kayne, etc. ) but are often out of reach for me. But again, having awareness of some of the points Kelly brought up helps me look at things in a more critical lens so I can consume the content by pulling inspiration from it rather than being influenced by it most of the time (because of course, there are times I am influenced!)
I think it's about not just the content you consume, but how you choose to consume it. Because I do like reading newsletters that cover some of those higher-end brands, even though it may not be realistic or relatable for me - the style is what's interesting to me. And I've stuck around with some of those influencers who have made it huge, and are buying those luxury items, but who I find are also genuine in their POV (e.g., Emily Schuman, Helena Hodne, etc.) The biggest thing for me is seeing how someone is able to stay true to themselves even if they've upgraded from Zara to now designer pieces. I personally rather that, than follow someone who often buys designer but is excessively sharing links to Amazon or more accessible brands you never see them wear just for the kickback.
Thank you, Kelly, as always for sharing your thoughts and sparking such interesting convos!
Maria, you hit on a point that I didn't make very clear in my piece and I'm grateful for that. Ultimately, we all get to choose who we follow or how we engage with content. I agree that I can follow people posting high-end stuff because their STYLE means more to me than their pieces.
HARD agree on staying true to yourself throughout content creation. It's something I have to be thoughtful of too!
Touching on the Row, we've all seen photos of MK & A carrying decades-old, battered birkins etc etc and thats how luxury is intended to be worn over many years and passed down/loved to death.
i think the problem now is that we are seeing influencers over-consume luxury items, a youtuber i follow does Luisa via Roma hauls pretty much monthly, frequently with Savette bags, YSL suits, the Row trousers, Loro Piana flats... it all becomes value-less because there's so much of it?!
Totally!! Part of fear is that we can know intellectually that there is less value because there is so much but, emotionally (and with younger readers) I don’t think they always realize that!
YES! 🙌🏼 let’s talk about how people who are truly wealthy tend to look and own garments and accessories that are USED and a bit battered. THAT is a true sign of style. It’s not all new new new…latest model etc etc
Can you link YouTube here? https://m.youtube.com/watch?si=_GtR5zgGvKPePfIe&v=jCwbU41Icfw&feature=youtu.be Not sure if it will work but I watched this last night and it was so interesting. They mention how a $200 suit from Sears in the 80’s would be $600 today if you account for inflation, but today Sears sells suits under $200. It made me think - just the day before I was debating a Matteau dress ($500) or a very similar COS one ($135) and thinking, “I have two young kids, I shouldn’t spend more than $135 on a dress I’m wearing to the playground!” But after watching that video I was like, maybe I should be spending $500! Maybe this is what clothes SHOULD cost? And you just fix society to make it appropriate to buy three new items of clothing a year. Simple!
Oye!! You bring up a VERY important point about labor laws. If I could guarantee that Matteau was paying/treating their workers ethically then I probably would be all about saving up and happily spend a higher dollar amount. I’m sad to say that most brands don’t have any better working conditions than a cheaper alternative.
Amen. The label and the price should not be the best thing about an item. I think the pricing thing goes both ways. As an avid thrifter, I try to be cognizant of if I really love something OR if it’s just a great deal. On the other end of the spectrum, that whole “quiet luxury” mindset is such bullshit. I hope that wealthy woman is just as generous with charity as she is with her Row sweaters 🙃
I have so much to say on this topic I don’t even know where to begin. Firstly- it’s somewhat the underlying sentiment that inspired my latest post. This idea that we are being influenced and examining the why behind it I think is necessary. Secondly- the whole reason I started this newsletter was bc I too was feeling everyone you articulated in this post. All I see over and over again are influencers wearing crazy $$$ designer clothing, shoes and bags and I wanted to bring it back down to earth for the rest of us who aren’t gifted all day long. Thirdly - and maybe most importantly- ALL THESE INFLUENCERS are being gifted from these brands. I am not sure about The Row specifically - but I know for a fact that a ton of the higher end luxury brands gift like bananas. So these influencers aren’t even always spending their own $$ to buy the Bottega or Chanel bag- they’re being gifted that too. And btw- sooooo many of them break FTC guidelines but not divulging that info. I don’t know what the solution is but at some point the milk is going to sour …. Excellent post Kelly!!
Thank you so much for this!! I have always loved and championed you because you are authentic. I see you owning nice pieces and I also trust that they came to you from saving (which is the more typical path to ownership).
You hit the nail on the head at the gifting of luxury products! I was trying to explain this to my husband and told him that the hardest part is that an influencer is given a high-end product but they don’t disclose it and, as a consumer, we are loyal to said influencer so we want what they have without realizing it was free to them.
I totally have collected and acquired my pieces over time - and TRR helps. But I also agree there are so many amazing content creators out there that we all love and follow and really glean amazing inspo from - but then there are those that just want to make a buck and don’t really care about connecting with their audience and being honest about gifting etc as well. At the end of the day, I guess the true power lies in us - all you gotta do is hit “unfollow”!
I was curious about the Row and how some influencers were accessing it. Seems the majority of time from what I’ve gathered that they are given spending $ toward third party retailers like NAP etc and if they sell lots of products on that platform with affiliates they’re rewarded with more spending $ there so they can buy the Row through NAP or similar companies with their spending allowance or reward $.
It’s such a struggle to see the lack of authenticity. I think there is a way to do affiliate linking without losing your credibility, though—if you link to only brands you own/wear; curate sale roundups for pieces you own or are purchasing; and, more importantly, pieces that fit your personal standards. For example, I don’t link to pieces that are made of non-natural fabrics (some exceptions, like swimsuits etc). I don’t believe in that. As you say re: The Row jellies, THEY ARE PLASTIC. I’m not paying luxury prices for PLASTIC. It’s absurd.
Sarah, I love your standard for what you will link! Someone in the comments suggested that a flat commission could help with affiliate linking too. I agree! I want people to be paid for their hard work (which content creation is!) it just feels murky to navigate genuine recommendations from high-commission ones.
Thank you! It’s important to me to maintain my personal standards. So much of what I wear I could never link because it’s like sweaters from a now-closed store in Bermuda bought by my grandmother and her best friend in the 60s 😂
Yes, I also think that’s a good idea!! It is work to put things together, but agreed re: high commissions. It’s hard to know who is recommending things for real and who isn’t!
This post really made me think. A good example of influcation for me is following Karenbritchick - I’ve followed her since at least 2010 and back then she did videos on her vintage finds and Zara /Mango purchases, all filmed from her pretty small apartment (the ground floor of a house). I absolutely loved her content because I could try and replicate it or be inspired by things I could readily afford- she found really creative ways to style with belts found at second hand stores and chopping off cowboy boots. Now- she has a range of very expensive designer bags and clothing, seems to regularly visit Paris, owns the entire house she lives in, and is a frow influencer up there at the shows. So now I find much less to relate to, and have stopped watching her YouTube videos because I simply can’t afford what she buys now so even though she’s inspiring, it’s now too far out of reach for me. Owning more than one Chanel bag is her life now but for me I’m still only able to afford Zara and second hand which is why I watched her in the first place. Another example is Susie Lau - am also a long term follower. Don’t get me wrong I adore both these women and wish them all the success they have - but for me it’s just all out of touch with my life now.
I think we all have that influencer that we saw this thing happen to! I watched my favorite style influencers grow completely out of my reach and it wasn’t until I did the mental work to understand influencing that I was able to disengage from following since I could no longer relate.
The Row is 100% the Emperor’s New Clothes, with everyone pretending the prices aren’t ludicrous. The fact that the 800-dollar jelly shoes are falling apart is hilarious. Their styling is fantastic but that’s all it is, there’s no need to buy any of it. There’s a great substack today from Somsack Sikhounmuong demonstrating this, which is just one of many.
But it’s happening at so many brands, this normalisation of vastly inflated prices. And you end up feeling shit that you can’t afford a 500-quid Khaite belt when it seems everyone else can, when actually it’s not even close to worth that. We’ve lost sight of what things are actually worth. Of course if you’re very wealthy none of this is a problem, but most of us aren’t, and yet are feeling pressured to shop as though we are, and as though that’s the norm.
My friend calls it Emperor's New Clothes too! It's so true!
I call it a popularity tax. You want the popular items well then prepare to shell out 4-figures on a cashmere sweater. Obviously cashmere is a high-end fabric but not, for a second, the cost that some of these brands charge.
I look back at the sardine bag that everyone was crazy about last year (?) and looking at it now is hysterical. How do you carry a bag with a handle like that?!
So true! It’s not like you can’t get quality fabrics for a tenth of their prices, esoecially if you go second-hand. If you only like the plain, round-neck cashmere sweater from a certain brand then that’s not style, that’s being a sheep.
My friend was obsessed with that sardine bag and I was like ok, it’s three grand and where are you taking that bag? The local pub? (I’m British btw, those are my references, haha)
Whatever happened to originality! To wanting something every DOESN’T have?! Luxury brands have lost sight of that. Going to the Hermès store ZOO in Champs Elysèes was the death of “luxury” for me lol. Vintage & secondhand or bust!
Could not agree more. I live in Paris and those queues make me cringe so hard when I see them. Standing in line to beg for the chance to maybe be allowed to buy a bag if they deem you fit to carry it is the exact opposite of having style.
Yep. And not just that, many people DO walk out with a new bag, bracelet, scarf — to what end? (Ed Note: my mother and sister in law bought me a scarf there last summer and it’s so special because THEY wanted me to have it and it’s beautiful and funky and of course that’s what matters! So make it special, but don’t make it “I gotta have Hermès for Hermès sake”
Oh totally, my brother and I got our mum an Hermès scarf for her 40th birthday and she still wears it all the time 30 years later and it’s beautiful, and the heritage of that brand does/did have some value as well as the personal heritage, which is infinitely more valuable. So it’s not like I’m totally anti-luxury but it’s gone absolutely bananas. The scarcity tactics and the accompanying prices are gross. When we bought that scarf 30 years ago we just walked in and picked it, and it was about £200, and it was such a special moment giving it to our mum. Now things are all so overblown and people have been influenced to just expect to live in the lap of luxury all the time that there’s no room for anything to mean anything anymore.
Precisely perfectly said, Lindsey. I love my Gucci Jackie black patent perfect timeless forever bag my parents bought me from a young woman’s little vintage store in Milan for 300 or so euro. It’s a 10/10 bag and I’ll have it forever! It’s special and that’s what it’s all about! But there’s so much that it’s also about that it shouldn’t be about…sigh.
Another one I’ve been noticing.. the thrift YouTuber to fashion girlie pipeline. For example, Emma chamberlain and BestDressed - all of their instagram comments are things like “they got our girl, she’s too cool now and she’s probably never coming back.” And if they can make money on whatever they are doing good for them, but it’s crazy to see the evolution
100%!! I've seen the girls who start by rounding up second-hand shopping grow so big that they are shopping high-end brands and I have to wonder why they are leaving their base in the dust like that!
This one is always devastating because it just further pulls so many of their following into thinking they'll only be accepted/cool/find fame if they follow suit. So many TikTok girlies skyrocketing to fame and becoming the face of overconsumption while their followers struggle to keep up because they're not getting the behind-the-scenes handouts.
Thank you for the great article! So much food for thought. It reminded me of watching the evolution of Man Repeller—so many expensive, unflattering outfits—yet I found myself thinking about buying a $500 dress shirt to tie it backwards around my leg or whatever Leandra decided was fashion that day 😵💫
Ha!! Leandra is the only person on the internet who can convince me I’ll wear bloomers some day. Luck has been in my favor that I haven’t actually bought them because I’d certainly catch some looks at preschool pick up 🫠
1. I believe it's impossible for an influencer that earns money through affiliate links, paid ads, and gifted items to be 100% authentic. Because they earn their living through these channels, the more they can maximize their earnings through sharing higher value items, trendy items, or sponsored items, the better for their income. I'm not saying that influencers shouldn't be able to earn a living, but we need to do a better job of being aware of this. I made the decision recently (inspired by TotallyRec) to make my substack free from affiliate links, paid ads, or gifted items because I felt like I couldn't be authentic with my recommendations if incentivized by these things.
2. I've asked this question about "middle tier" brands before as well - I think Sezane does fit that bucket well and so do brands like Reformation and Madewell. I do wish there were more options though!
I think you are right RE honest affiliate linking. It's insidious because I'm happy to pay a "finder's fee" but it's impossible to parse out an honest recommendation. When I saw the backend of ShopMy I was shocked at the commission payout offered by lots of places, 15-20% is a pretty hefty kickback and would certainly sway me into linking to that product vs. one without a commission.
Totally agree - I was shocked to see the backend of ShopMy too. I also agree that I'd be down to pay a founders fee - what if the affiliate was the same, no matter what you linked? That way, you were rewarding the curation, but the influencer could link any item they wanted. I don't think influencers would love this, but maybe if audiences felt this was more authentic then it could gain momentum.
I really miss the early days of fashion blogs before gifting even existed, never mind affiliate links! When it was just some girl with a normal job who was just really stylish and great at putting looks together and would tell you where she got stuff for nothing, or even who you could just copy with your own stuff. With hindsight it was always going to go the way it has, but it was so great when it was just people who loved fashion sharing it for fun.
Me too!! Honestly it's why I love Substack notes so much because it's people sharing their outfits randomly and we are all just on here for FUN so the outfits are real and realistic.
Hmmm i must be reading a substack. The notes might not be linked to affiliate marketing but it’s like reading one big circular reference
That’s too bad!! When I see someone sharing a fun outfit on notes it’s usually unrelated to their posts! But I might not be referencing the same people 🤷♀️
Same! It’s so refreshing to see normal people (of all shapes and sizes too) who buy their own clothes sharing outfits and chatting about fashion just because they’re excited about it!
same - it couldn't continue that way forever, it's not possible to put out an endless stream of outfits and posts forever in exchange for nothing except some nice comments. The investment of time alone would have eventually killed most of the early fashion blogs whose writers were in full-time work or education and didn't want to or couldn't turn pro (what we now know as influencers) but the arrival of ig did the rest.
But god do I miss the greater honesty of those days when people weren't dressing mainly to be photographed and weren't hesitant to be critical of even the most vaunted fashion names. That was the anti-establishment, and now it's the establishment.
Me too- it seemed so much more creative then. It’s so easy to show a 5k handbag - where is the inspiration for us followers in that?
Agreed - having a budget forces you to get creative!! And makes the bigger purchases more meaningful.
Same here! Substack feels closest to that - I hope it can stay that way!
I was disappointed to see a substacker I really like post on instagram today saying “PRs and brands, why are you sleeping on Substack!?!” I just thought noooooo, stay away please!
I thought the very same...
This was !!!! You literally wrote some of the thoughts that rotate through my brain when I scroll Instagram these days, not to mention a lot of the reasons I left my old styling job. So much of influencing (can be, not all the time) smoke and mirrors and its (often) discouraging to see a largely unattainable lifestyle being sold to twenty- somethings -- when I first downloaded TikTok and had yet to tweak my algorithm, it was flooded with 25 year olds crying/screaming/lusting over Birkin bags...all for the clout of being able to flaunt the ability to "afford" one and be in this elite club that's all an illusion?
I had a styling client who was very (very, very, very) wealthy and demanded to only wear plain black Balmain t-shirts (as undershirts) that cost $750 a piece. The way....they looked... like Hanes t-shirts that cost $30 for a 3 pack... that's how I (personally) feel about 98% of what The Row has to offer.
"What do we do as we watch prices for the “must have item” grow out of our reach and the product that is within reach falls apart after one wear?" - I think another point here is that just because something is designer does not mean its well made! Like The Row jelly sandals which are sold out everywhere, reselling for 1.5x the cost, and have been snapping/falling apart on most people. I used to personal shop for clients and the amount of things that looked great online yet showed up feeling "cheap", or were damaged/poorly made - it's not all good!
Obviously this is why I buy mostly secondhand - but as to where to go for the basic closet essentials that are ideal to buy new? I have no idea. I worked at Madewell for far too long and the quality just isn't there for what the mark-up is most of the time!
Lots of food for thought!
The way I smiled while reading your comment. I'm so glad this resonated with you as I worried that I was the lone person feeling this way!!
There is such a massive IYKYK concept when it comes to fashion. Wearing The Row $750 sneakers is an example. Like they are literally not that different than any number of sneakers but people wanted them because of the brand (and not even the logo!). Similar to your client, like "you know you can get this for $10?"
Also, your point about The Row jellies was something I desperately wanted to touch on without The Row-fanatics coming for me. How dumb do you feel when you buy those shoes and they break on you? It's one thing when it's an Uber wealthy woman but it's another when it's someone going into debt for it because they see it all over their feeds. (I know they refunded them, yadda yadda) but my point remains.
The IYKYK concept is always SO fascinating to me - mostly when I see *far* more stylish people wearing the $30 Keds than the fashion/trendy person in the $750 version. People easily forget it's *how* you wear it - they're (often) just blinded by the impulse to *have* it. ETA: I wouldn't mind luxury influencers as much if there were more of them styling things outside the box of what's currently virally trendy.
Honestly, I think it might be time to start getting spicy and share the opinions that don't just go with the flow! I've held my tongue in most of my writing when it comes to influencers, trends, luxury brands, etc etc because we're surrounded by many of these people in some way shape or form on this platform (this became glaringly apparent when I saw who was seeing my feels about Bode) but nothing will change in these industries if they don't start seeing the criticism that the average, level headed consumer, can feel bored, tapped out, and miserable with what's being thrown at them!
I find it ironic that many feel the luxury/fashion/influencer industry to be elite, when in reality it feels (to me) like a very boring, repetitive echo chamber.
I needed that encouragement to say what I needed to say! There are a lot of consumers feeling the same way we feel so let's lend them a place to feel normalized.
I feel it necessary to add, given where this topic has gone since you posted, that my thoughts are just one teeny tiny little baby blurb on how wide and expansive this subject is as we watch advertising, capitalism, and the internet continue to shift at lightning speed into a new era.
I am very aware, worked with many people, and know many people who are the target audience for many of these influencers and can afford luxury goods and I was delighted to participate in being in the designer fashion space with them. My previous career had me working with some of the wealthiest women in America and to learn and discuss with them their shopping, spending, hunting for exotic couture habits was a fascinating chapter of my life I look back on fondly.
There is something for everyone in this big wide world, I just think a lot of people are looking for more transparency. Don’t get me wrong, if my personal budget allowed it, I’d be wearing a hell of a lot more designer!!
This isn’t saying influencers = bad, luxury brands = bad, how dare women spend their money on nice things. I don’t want my comments to be taken as a bitter chip on my shoulder but rather food for thought as newer generations navigate growing up on apps where they have access to seeing a distorted reality of literally how the entire world lives at the push of a button.
I’m glad you posted this because I can get bent around the axel about this a little bit but I’m a huge fan of designer fashion. If I had the money I would use it to buy nice things too. I hope that my post, at least, was clear that the issue is with lack of transparency around the acquiring of end high products and the confusion a (esp young) person can feel around being able to have those pieces too.
Soooo agree with styling being one giant smokescreen… even stylists themselves will wear client pulls and post them as if it’s part of their closet and it’s just wild to me? It’s all about clout these days and also a reason I left the styling side of things (full time at least)
I don't, on principle, have a problem with people earning money from affiliate links - if they genuinely like the product because it's something they spent their own money on and get a percentage if I buy it through a link, it's fine - a finder's fee, as someone above said. Same with people who started off as bedroom bloggers but are now full-time part of the industry .... my interest in them may have been initially sparked by a certain relatability (same age, same taste in music/fashion etc) but then our paths diverge as they got more access to the expensive stuff, gain status in the industry, things change - that's still fine and I can hardly hold it against them when I myself can afford - and choose to buy - far more expensive wearables, whether secondhand or not, than I could at age 23.
(I also had the benefit of it being very normalised in the mid-late 00s to wear 'high-low' or pull off a look entirely from high street brands, and older bloggers who owned designer pieces being up front about how they could afford it - tl;dr years of working for a living, no children, sample sales, editorial perks in some cases - actively telling us NOT to buy certain designer pieces if we were under 30 because in their experience, it didn't fit the lives/styles of very young women, never mind the cost)
But the 'are you kidding me?!' territory isn't far away when a brand chooses to flog canvas plimsolls for $950 and jelly shoes for $890 or another chooses to flog trousers for $900 'you'll have them forever' - and then you see people actively recommending this stuff across your algorithm after being gifted them i.e. they spent no money on it but expect you to spend yours, to make them money. As for the 'you're not my audience' argument.....sure, luxury has always been about giving you something that the plebes don't or can't have, often because they didn't even know it existed. The Row has been highly expensive since 2006, those price points are not new but they also weren't in everyone's faces because they were out of sight in Barney's or whatever. Those $900 plastic shoes or crazy expensive bags being sold in a luxury department store far away from where I live? I won't even know they were ever there or who bought them because I wouldn't even think to walk into that shop. They don't want the riffraff as customers, so they sell it in a place the riffraff won't go to. But the same thing floating across my ig explore or substack home page via algorithm? Is actively seeking to catch my peasant attention and possibly my goodwill to make a purchase, and I think it's perfectly fair to have opinions of the 'are you kidding me?!' variety in such cases.
I see you understood the point of my post 😉 you hit my main points/feelings!! I’m actually not diminishing the work or reward of content creation!
yeah I understand the point of influencing/affiliate links and why it exists, but in practice it's not usually my cup of tea even if I think there are those who do it well and in a way that's true to their own tastes and lives. But then I'm a former blogger myself and a lot of the culture surrounding influencing is the opposite of what drew me to other bloggers back in the 00s.
I was totally lost about what all this is about until I read some of the comments in Kelly’s article…first of all, it feels pure zero-sum bias at play here, when really there is room for all types of creators. I understand that livelihoods are at stake for some creators, but the blogging/newsletter universe needs a diversity of views, just like everything else important in the world, and getting incredibly territorial every time there are opposing views is not helpful…
Brilliantly put, all of this. If we have to see it, we’re allowed an opinion on it.
exactly and when even Vogue - Vogue!! - runs an article saying luxury fashion prices are getting absurd, I think it's fair to say they are.
I want to live in this piece and this comment section. Thank you, Kelly, Kendall, Glenn Mae, Cost per Fit et al! I decided to start my Substack LAST WEEK in part because I can no longer relate to so many of the OG styling queens who write on Substack or are influencers — and none of my clients have ever been close to being able to relate to them! Last week, a very successful example of had The Row for nearly half of her recommendations throughout her post — and lauded how a $5000 pair of pants was on sale for $2500 and was therefore a steal. That could convince a follower to go into debt for something absurd they don’t need. Just totally unrelatable or accessible for most of us. And the Toteme and The Row -ification of fashion — ie minimalist quiet luxury — is just so not my style or that of most of my clients and friends. And overall way too much encouragement of buying new over secondhand cuz everything goes on “sale.” OVER IT!
I'm so glad you are on SS and letting your voice be heard too! We need our voices to be louder than the other women who are absolutely screaming about how great these brands are. Your point about sending followers in to debt is important to me. These influencers suggesting products (that they often don't pay for) is insulting.
THANK YOU FOR SAYING THAT! Let’s keep each other accountable. The pressure and pulls are REAL.
*successful example of this kind of writer/influencer
I would love for the influencer content to slow down. It’s so damaging for the younger generation and makes young women incredibly anxious that they’re not ‘caught up’ with brands most will never afford. My wardrobe at 23 working in high fashion consisted of well chosen COS and H&M pieces but I saved every penny to buy Helmut Lang or ACNE bits I loved and wore until they fell apart or were resold. I never overconsumed and I upgraded my wardrobe slowly over time. We didn’t expect to have the best of the best by age 25. The Row jelly situation is just bonkers. I called them out as ‘Emperors New Clothes’ early on. Literally, they’re plastic, people!!!
Well said Camilla! Did you read the piece about “The Great Exhaustion” that is anticipated in 2026? I remain hopeful that a side-effect of that is that influencing changes in a positive way; highlighting styling and conscious consumption.
I did! I am hopeful too! Great article Kelly 👏🏻
Exactly, Camilla! And, honestly, it's damaging for mid-life women who are at a crossroads with their style given bodies shape shifting (thanks, menopause) and lifestyles pivoting. No one needs the disingenuous influencer to thrust high-end "must haves" that they, themselves, are not purchasing.
This was a great read, Kelly. The system is so broken. I was just reading an exposé about how Dior spends $57 manufacturing a handbag that retails for $2700. Emperor's new clothes (and accessories), indeed.
i feel like the saddest part of the dior story is not that you are paying so much more than what it costs to produce but that luxury houses are not paying their workers enough. for many people luxury brands are about fair wages and better work conditions, but investigations lately have been showing that many brands are using sweatshops, overworking people and not paying enough. basically the same story as with fast fashion companies. this is the worst part for me. you are lead to believe the dior bags are made by highly skilled well paid artisans who love their job but in reality it’s a sweatshop with tons of workers, minimum wages and human rights violations.
👏👏👏👏
Yes, and even if that $57 was just the cost of materials and didn't cover labour and design, when a product is sold for $2600 but made by people who are effectively working in the same conditions as a sweatshop..... that's not luxury (and at that price point I would expect some of that money to ensure the people who made my bag are paid and treated WELL. Which is a huge part of 'luxury' marketing and justification of the insane prices!)
Yes Lily!! This is my thinking too!
Exactly. It's obvious that big corporations (fast fashion, mid-price and luxury) could pay decent wages to the people who make their products, but they choose not to. It's sickening.
Thank you for raising such an important point. It’s such a huge part of the marketing for LVMH brands (for example) to punt their history of craftsmanship, using the image of dedicated experts working away in ateliers, even extending to doors open days to visit these. Pretty sickening to learn that’s a smoke and mirrors situation too.
yes, i also feel totally betrayed by their “craftsmanship” marketing as well. and no media is talking enough about it because they are getting their money from lvmh is some way or another
💯
Yes
Wowowow. I think consumers would so appreciate transparency around mark-ups. It’s expected because of the cost of running a business but no company would expose themselves because of how greedy it would reveal them to be!
I saw that Dior story the same day I saw an influencer holding up a Dior bag she was sent saying: “I wouldn’t buy it with my own money but it’s nice to have been sent it”……
So Dior literally could afford to send it to her because they were only giving her something that cost $57! 😱😱😱
Yep, but we’re supposed to be influenced to go out and spend 3k on it. And after that glowing endorsement… perfectly encapsulates how rotten the whole thing has become.
Yes - we all saw that one and were any of us really surprised that Dior makes billions in profit by an insane mark up? It’s how Kering et al got so rich. It’s really appalling now!!! It made me feel nauseous seeing the Dior factory workers sleeping on the floor to make 5k bags 😱😱😱
This was such an interesting read, Kelly, and comment section! It's a funny one. On the one hand, I agree that so much of what we're shown on Instagram isn't attainable for most of us and it can feel a bit "off" if an influencer you've followed and admired for years starts sharing products that aren't accessible.
On the other hand, it is important to take into account that these influencers we've followed for years are now older and, as their careers have grown, so too have their incomes - as you mentioned in this post. I feel very fortunate that I have more disposable income now at 34 than I did at 24 because I'm much further along in my career (and don't have any kids/dependents), and that's reflected in my wardrobe choices.
I do believe there are a lot of "genuine" influencers out there. I suppose it's like any media we consume: we should view it with a critical (though not judgemental) eye, understand that there may be some biases (whether the influencer knows it or not), and take what we want from it. I personally take a lot of styling inspiration from the likes of The Row and while I know I will probably never buy/afford something from them, I know I can recreate a lot of their looks with pieces I own. The same goes for pieces that influencers share. That's where the creativity of styling comes in!
Angharad, thank you for your graceful response! I am loving the engagement from readers but I also think that the point I wrote about it being lost a little bit but you have grasped it perfectly. I just wanted to encourage people to be thoughtful about how we can start to think we should overextend ourselves financially because of exposure on social media. Ultimately we all get to decide who/how we engage with someone so if I’m following them it usually because I like their style and can approximate it in my own closet or I genuinely like their product recommendations!
Completely agree. I think social media marketing will always be a hot topic!
I love both of your POVs, Kelly and Angharad! I thought this was such a thoughtful piece, and Kelly brought up so many good points that many of us "mid-range buyers" could relate to. I'm not as affected by ultra-luxury brands, like The Row because they feel so unattainable to me, but I still like to consume content on them in a more aspirational way and to get ideas on how I could recreate similar looks on my budget.
I've noticed that being on Substack has made me more aware of other higher-end brands, so if anything, I do find myself lusting after a lot more brands that don't seem expensive to some people (e.g., Khaite, Vince, Doen, Jenni Kayne, etc. ) but are often out of reach for me. But again, having awareness of some of the points Kelly brought up helps me look at things in a more critical lens so I can consume the content by pulling inspiration from it rather than being influenced by it most of the time (because of course, there are times I am influenced!)
I think it's about not just the content you consume, but how you choose to consume it. Because I do like reading newsletters that cover some of those higher-end brands, even though it may not be realistic or relatable for me - the style is what's interesting to me. And I've stuck around with some of those influencers who have made it huge, and are buying those luxury items, but who I find are also genuine in their POV (e.g., Emily Schuman, Helena Hodne, etc.) The biggest thing for me is seeing how someone is able to stay true to themselves even if they've upgraded from Zara to now designer pieces. I personally rather that, than follow someone who often buys designer but is excessively sharing links to Amazon or more accessible brands you never see them wear just for the kickback.
Thank you, Kelly, as always for sharing your thoughts and sparking such interesting convos!
Maria, you hit on a point that I didn't make very clear in my piece and I'm grateful for that. Ultimately, we all get to choose who we follow or how we engage with content. I agree that I can follow people posting high-end stuff because their STYLE means more to me than their pieces.
HARD agree on staying true to yourself throughout content creation. It's something I have to be thoughtful of too!
Touching on the Row, we've all seen photos of MK & A carrying decades-old, battered birkins etc etc and thats how luxury is intended to be worn over many years and passed down/loved to death.
i think the problem now is that we are seeing influencers over-consume luxury items, a youtuber i follow does Luisa via Roma hauls pretty much monthly, frequently with Savette bags, YSL suits, the Row trousers, Loro Piana flats... it all becomes value-less because there's so much of it?!
Totally!! Part of fear is that we can know intellectually that there is less value because there is so much but, emotionally (and with younger readers) I don’t think they always realize that!
YES! 🙌🏼 let’s talk about how people who are truly wealthy tend to look and own garments and accessories that are USED and a bit battered. THAT is a true sign of style. It’s not all new new new…latest model etc etc
Can you link YouTube here? https://m.youtube.com/watch?si=_GtR5zgGvKPePfIe&v=jCwbU41Icfw&feature=youtu.be Not sure if it will work but I watched this last night and it was so interesting. They mention how a $200 suit from Sears in the 80’s would be $600 today if you account for inflation, but today Sears sells suits under $200. It made me think - just the day before I was debating a Matteau dress ($500) or a very similar COS one ($135) and thinking, “I have two young kids, I shouldn’t spend more than $135 on a dress I’m wearing to the playground!” But after watching that video I was like, maybe I should be spending $500! Maybe this is what clothes SHOULD cost? And you just fix society to make it appropriate to buy three new items of clothing a year. Simple!
Oye!! You bring up a VERY important point about labor laws. If I could guarantee that Matteau was paying/treating their workers ethically then I probably would be all about saving up and happily spend a higher dollar amount. I’m sad to say that most brands don’t have any better working conditions than a cheaper alternative.
This is very true, and researching it is very difficult. Alas!
I just referenced this same video in my comment haha glad I have found my people
YES!!!! We found each other!
Amen. The label and the price should not be the best thing about an item. I think the pricing thing goes both ways. As an avid thrifter, I try to be cognizant of if I really love something OR if it’s just a great deal. On the other end of the spectrum, that whole “quiet luxury” mindset is such bullshit. I hope that wealthy woman is just as generous with charity as she is with her Row sweaters 🙃
You hit on the other end of the spectrum which is wasteful shopping in the name of a deal!! Why is it so sticky?!
“The label and the price should not be the best thing about an item. I think the pricing thing goes both ways.” yesssss. you’re spot on!
I have so much to say on this topic I don’t even know where to begin. Firstly- it’s somewhat the underlying sentiment that inspired my latest post. This idea that we are being influenced and examining the why behind it I think is necessary. Secondly- the whole reason I started this newsletter was bc I too was feeling everyone you articulated in this post. All I see over and over again are influencers wearing crazy $$$ designer clothing, shoes and bags and I wanted to bring it back down to earth for the rest of us who aren’t gifted all day long. Thirdly - and maybe most importantly- ALL THESE INFLUENCERS are being gifted from these brands. I am not sure about The Row specifically - but I know for a fact that a ton of the higher end luxury brands gift like bananas. So these influencers aren’t even always spending their own $$ to buy the Bottega or Chanel bag- they’re being gifted that too. And btw- sooooo many of them break FTC guidelines but not divulging that info. I don’t know what the solution is but at some point the milk is going to sour …. Excellent post Kelly!!
Thank you so much for this!! I have always loved and championed you because you are authentic. I see you owning nice pieces and I also trust that they came to you from saving (which is the more typical path to ownership).
You hit the nail on the head at the gifting of luxury products! I was trying to explain this to my husband and told him that the hardest part is that an influencer is given a high-end product but they don’t disclose it and, as a consumer, we are loyal to said influencer so we want what they have without realizing it was free to them.
I totally have collected and acquired my pieces over time - and TRR helps. But I also agree there are so many amazing content creators out there that we all love and follow and really glean amazing inspo from - but then there are those that just want to make a buck and don’t really care about connecting with their audience and being honest about gifting etc as well. At the end of the day, I guess the true power lies in us - all you gotta do is hit “unfollow”!
We have the power to vote if we follow, click their links, etc. Truly, the reminder we all needed😉
I was curious about the Row and how some influencers were accessing it. Seems the majority of time from what I’ve gathered that they are given spending $ toward third party retailers like NAP etc and if they sell lots of products on that platform with affiliates they’re rewarded with more spending $ there so they can buy the Row through NAP or similar companies with their spending allowance or reward $.
Yes, it seems to me The Row is mostly being acquired on those other retailers since I doubt they are working direct with influencers.
Bravo!!
It’s such a struggle to see the lack of authenticity. I think there is a way to do affiliate linking without losing your credibility, though—if you link to only brands you own/wear; curate sale roundups for pieces you own or are purchasing; and, more importantly, pieces that fit your personal standards. For example, I don’t link to pieces that are made of non-natural fabrics (some exceptions, like swimsuits etc). I don’t believe in that. As you say re: The Row jellies, THEY ARE PLASTIC. I’m not paying luxury prices for PLASTIC. It’s absurd.
Sarah, I love your standard for what you will link! Someone in the comments suggested that a flat commission could help with affiliate linking too. I agree! I want people to be paid for their hard work (which content creation is!) it just feels murky to navigate genuine recommendations from high-commission ones.
Thank you! It’s important to me to maintain my personal standards. So much of what I wear I could never link because it’s like sweaters from a now-closed store in Bermuda bought by my grandmother and her best friend in the 60s 😂
Yes, I also think that’s a good idea!! It is work to put things together, but agreed re: high commissions. It’s hard to know who is recommending things for real and who isn’t!
This post really made me think. A good example of influcation for me is following Karenbritchick - I’ve followed her since at least 2010 and back then she did videos on her vintage finds and Zara /Mango purchases, all filmed from her pretty small apartment (the ground floor of a house). I absolutely loved her content because I could try and replicate it or be inspired by things I could readily afford- she found really creative ways to style with belts found at second hand stores and chopping off cowboy boots. Now- she has a range of very expensive designer bags and clothing, seems to regularly visit Paris, owns the entire house she lives in, and is a frow influencer up there at the shows. So now I find much less to relate to, and have stopped watching her YouTube videos because I simply can’t afford what she buys now so even though she’s inspiring, it’s now too far out of reach for me. Owning more than one Chanel bag is her life now but for me I’m still only able to afford Zara and second hand which is why I watched her in the first place. Another example is Susie Lau - am also a long term follower. Don’t get me wrong I adore both these women and wish them all the success they have - but for me it’s just all out of touch with my life now.
I think we all have that influencer that we saw this thing happen to! I watched my favorite style influencers grow completely out of my reach and it wasn’t until I did the mental work to understand influencing that I was able to disengage from following since I could no longer relate.
The Row is 100% the Emperor’s New Clothes, with everyone pretending the prices aren’t ludicrous. The fact that the 800-dollar jelly shoes are falling apart is hilarious. Their styling is fantastic but that’s all it is, there’s no need to buy any of it. There’s a great substack today from Somsack Sikhounmuong demonstrating this, which is just one of many.
But it’s happening at so many brands, this normalisation of vastly inflated prices. And you end up feeling shit that you can’t afford a 500-quid Khaite belt when it seems everyone else can, when actually it’s not even close to worth that. We’ve lost sight of what things are actually worth. Of course if you’re very wealthy none of this is a problem, but most of us aren’t, and yet are feeling pressured to shop as though we are, and as though that’s the norm.
My friend calls it Emperor's New Clothes too! It's so true!
I call it a popularity tax. You want the popular items well then prepare to shell out 4-figures on a cashmere sweater. Obviously cashmere is a high-end fabric but not, for a second, the cost that some of these brands charge.
I look back at the sardine bag that everyone was crazy about last year (?) and looking at it now is hysterical. How do you carry a bag with a handle like that?!
So true! It’s not like you can’t get quality fabrics for a tenth of their prices, esoecially if you go second-hand. If you only like the plain, round-neck cashmere sweater from a certain brand then that’s not style, that’s being a sheep.
My friend was obsessed with that sardine bag and I was like ok, it’s three grand and where are you taking that bag? The local pub? (I’m British btw, those are my references, haha)
Whatever happened to originality! To wanting something every DOESN’T have?! Luxury brands have lost sight of that. Going to the Hermès store ZOO in Champs Elysèes was the death of “luxury” for me lol. Vintage & secondhand or bust!
Could not agree more. I live in Paris and those queues make me cringe so hard when I see them. Standing in line to beg for the chance to maybe be allowed to buy a bag if they deem you fit to carry it is the exact opposite of having style.
Yep. And not just that, many people DO walk out with a new bag, bracelet, scarf — to what end? (Ed Note: my mother and sister in law bought me a scarf there last summer and it’s so special because THEY wanted me to have it and it’s beautiful and funky and of course that’s what matters! So make it special, but don’t make it “I gotta have Hermès for Hermès sake”
Oh totally, my brother and I got our mum an Hermès scarf for her 40th birthday and she still wears it all the time 30 years later and it’s beautiful, and the heritage of that brand does/did have some value as well as the personal heritage, which is infinitely more valuable. So it’s not like I’m totally anti-luxury but it’s gone absolutely bananas. The scarcity tactics and the accompanying prices are gross. When we bought that scarf 30 years ago we just walked in and picked it, and it was about £200, and it was such a special moment giving it to our mum. Now things are all so overblown and people have been influenced to just expect to live in the lap of luxury all the time that there’s no room for anything to mean anything anymore.
Precisely perfectly said, Lindsey. I love my Gucci Jackie black patent perfect timeless forever bag my parents bought me from a young woman’s little vintage store in Milan for 300 or so euro. It’s a 10/10 bag and I’ll have it forever! It’s special and that’s what it’s all about! But there’s so much that it’s also about that it shouldn’t be about…sigh.
I love that. The memories attached and the fact it was a special gift and something you will love forever – that’s luxury.
Another one I’ve been noticing.. the thrift YouTuber to fashion girlie pipeline. For example, Emma chamberlain and BestDressed - all of their instagram comments are things like “they got our girl, she’s too cool now and she’s probably never coming back.” And if they can make money on whatever they are doing good for them, but it’s crazy to see the evolution
100%!! I've seen the girls who start by rounding up second-hand shopping grow so big that they are shopping high-end brands and I have to wonder why they are leaving their base in the dust like that!
This one is always devastating because it just further pulls so many of their following into thinking they'll only be accepted/cool/find fame if they follow suit. So many TikTok girlies skyrocketing to fame and becoming the face of overconsumption while their followers struggle to keep up because they're not getting the behind-the-scenes handouts.
Thank you for the great article! So much food for thought. It reminded me of watching the evolution of Man Repeller—so many expensive, unflattering outfits—yet I found myself thinking about buying a $500 dress shirt to tie it backwards around my leg or whatever Leandra decided was fashion that day 😵💫
Ha!! Leandra is the only person on the internet who can convince me I’ll wear bloomers some day. Luck has been in my favor that I haven’t actually bought them because I’d certainly catch some looks at preschool pick up 🫠